Silk thread, zari and mirror work: what your bangles are made of
A look inside a handmade bangle – the base, the silk thread wrap, the zari, the mirrors and the little bells – and what each one tells you about quality.
Pick up one of our bangles and turn it slowly in the light. What looks like a single object is really several crafts layered together, each done by hand. Here is what you are looking at.
The base
Every thread or fabric bangle starts with a firm ring. It gives the bangle its size and shape, so a good base is smooth, perfectly round and the right thickness. Everything else is built on top of it.
Silk thread wrapping
Thread is wound around the base tightly and evenly, turn after turn, until no base shows through. Silk thread has a soft sheen that catches the light, which is why silk thread bangles look rich even in simple colours. Even, tight wrapping without gaps or bumps is the first sign of careful work.
Zari
Zari is metallic thread. Traditionally it was made with real gold or silver; today most zari is a fine metallic-coated thread, which gives the same glow at an everyday price. On bangles, zari is used for borders, stripes and woven patterns over the silk.
Mirror work
Small round mirrors are set into the thread and held in place with stitching or a fine frame. Mirror work has a long history in South Asian textiles; on a bangle it adds sparkle that moves as your hand moves. Look for mirrors that sit flat and secure, with no sharp edges.
Ghungroo and cowrie shells
Ghungroo are tiny metal bells, the same kind dancers wear around their ankles. On festive bangles they add a soft chime. Cowrie shells bring a natural, earthy touch and pair beautifully with bright thread colours.
Fabric and print
Fabric bangles are wrapped in cloth instead of thread. Printed and tie-dyed fabrics, like bandhani dot patterns, turn each bangle into a small piece of textile art. Because the pattern falls differently on every piece, no two are exactly alike.
Handmade means small differences. A slight variation in a wrap or a mirror that sits a millimetre off is not a defect – it is the mark of a person, not a machine.
How to spot a well-made bangle
- The thread is wound tightly with no gaps where the base shows.
- The start and end of the wrap are hidden neatly.
- Mirrors, stones and bells are firmly attached and smooth to the touch.
- Every bangle in a set is the same size.
See these crafts up close in our bangle collection.
